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All right guys so we’re going to talk About More advanced concepts in arousal right And creating activity in the dog now so This is my competition dog he’s Currently titled igp1 So Again i i can’t say this enough because I know a lot of people are gonna get Confused about this it’s so important to Differentiate between when i need him Active and when i just need him to be Normal so if i’m like healing onto the Field or uh or sorry i’m just walking on The field i’m just walking normally with Me This is how we’re walking right dog’s Not looking at me he is excited because He knows we’re about to do something but He’s not in that same state down Of arousal that you would see With him doing the obedience okay so What i’m going to do now is i’ll just Get you to move over here What i’m going to do now guys is i’m Going to give him the activation cue so For me i have a word cue i also have a Collar right but the big thing is your Dog shouldn’t be your dog should be like This you can see he’s raring to go he is Raring to go he wants to get after it Okay So Once i put this on him he’s gonna know
That’s kind of the signal to get after It and don’t be afraid like Maybe he might just break right now and Start barking at me that’s okay right i Want a dog who i have to be like hey Calm down calm down calm down versus a Dog where i have to say hey bring it up Bring it up bring it up all right so i Allow i don’t murder my dog if he breaks Kind of preempts me and says you know What let’s get after it right now you Know you’ll notice that a lot of the Time Between reps or before i get started my Dogs will actually start being active Before i’ve actually cued them to be Active and i’ll either kind of just Calmly tell them to hey like sit down or Lie down or whatever or i’ll even reward It right because If you make too much obedience here Right with this dog then your dog’s Gonna start to become a little bit flat Right the more reactive a dog is the Less proactive a dog is this is all About creating pro-active dog he hasn’t Taken his eyes off me and i never gave Him a single command to look at me right And the reason why is because he wants To get after it right so a lot of Problems in obedience in terms of energy And uh you know activity oh he’s not Focused on me all of that goes away when You have an active dog right so
Uh Good So you can see there he brought tons of Activity Now he’s putting it all into the Behavior Now i can choose to remove him from this Behavior and create activity And now i put That activity Back into the behavior All right I make power i don’t let him blow his Top every dog’s different some dogs can Handle a lot more barking than other Dogs some dogs are more jumpy [Music] And now we start to think where do we Really want the activity Right do i want to Hear in the basic position Because in igp there’s a lot of basic Positions And this is what This is where i want it right I want the dog To become super active in the basic Position yes The reason why i doubt i’m gonna explain Why i put the majority once a dog is More developed like he is And has been taken Pretty far through the system i can Start to really target the times when i
Want to create the conditioned response Of activity and for me i start putting It into the basics right The basic positions and the reason why Is because in igp when you’re moving Your dog naturally even dogs that Haven’t been taken through the system Movement generally creates more Engagement so you’re moving and they’re Engaged with you it’s when you stop That’s when you see a lot of dogs check Out so instead of having a problem where Oh no he’s going to check out on me Because we’ve stopped let’s create the Opposite problem we’ve stopped he should Be like hey hey i want to do something i Want to do something hey hey i want to Do something right and and you should Have that kind of jittery dog next to You in the basics because then when you Start moving you’re getting maximum Power Into each exercise now depends on the Sport obviously different sports may Require different things out So i pounded him I’ve outed him I outed him there what happened He became active on his own and i say This before and i’ll say it again the Dog becomes active on his own right I need him to become active on or Automatically when the rep ends he Should be pushing me to do the next
Thing right there you also saw me make E-collar because he got a little bit too And some with some dogs like like him Very high frustration dog super intense They will take it too far sometimes and If you don’t kind of contain the energy A little bit then they can start jumping On you and biting you and stuff like This and of course for me that becomes a Waste of energy i need the energy Contained in front of me right i want The dog to put that energy into every Behavior Boy good And i want him active and active doesn’t Always mean barking i said it before and I’ll say it again down Down As they become more advanced i start Getting them for cheap shots because When i allow a young dog Right what i allow a young dog to do I cannot allow a more advanced dog to do Right because it can create uh you know Issues where the dog instead of putting The energy into the obedience they start Putting the energy into things like Jumping on you and biting you and it’s It’s kind of this is where the art comes In right you have to determine You have to determine right where is my Dog requiring some activity Now does he need activity here oh yeah Good and i’m making activity next to me
Not in front of me for him because he Likes to be in front of me being active Because i did that a ton in his Foundation so for him he needs to work More on that In the Basic position or in the healing And again For me if the dog’s kind of jittering Next to me he’s looking at me he’s kind Of he hasn’t even necessarily started Barking down Down he hasn’t started barking i’m still Okay With rewarding that i want active dog Next to me Right so Another advanced concept okay and you Can start to think to yourself okay Maybe my dog’s a little bit weak before A dumbbell retrieve So you go you take the dumbbell off the Rack and you make an active dog there And then you go and move into the Dumbbell retrieve right it’s not about Always rewarding him for the activity It’s actually about beginning to Frustrate him right foos Show him the ball show him oh yeah right Yes [Applause] [Music] It’s over there It’s over there buddy
All right guys so you get the idea you Start to play with it a little bit down Don’t always pop the ball don’t always Do the same thing sometimes i frustrate Him a lot right for some dogs a lot of Frustration goes very far for some dogs They’ll quit if you do too much depends On the dog depends on the drive level Right so if you say okay you know he’s Really weak in the down in motion well Let’s make him active and then let’s go Into our down in motion right this is Where we start making more advanced Concepts for me my dog’s a little bit Low in the the basic position right After our last uh two trials I he got a little bit flat there in the Basic position so the other thing that We want to start doing down is in a Trial Out In a trial okay The dog Is going to be Foose Okay There’s going to be moments where There’s nothing happening so let’s say I’m waiting for a send out or Something’s happening down Okay my dog’s in a down and for me this Is the signal that nothing’s happening i Put my arms in front of me okay And i don’t need activity at this point
Right The other thing that you can do okay Boos [Music] Sit I’ll just say sit and i put my arms in Front of me he knows hey it’s chillax Time you can look around whatever but Then the second i do this [Music] And I start to condition the dog to believe That when My hands come to my sides And down Out And i make that boost right it’s time to Get active puss Obviously this is something you want to Practice Sit And he still There you go i don’t mind if he looks Around here now if he looks around When i have i’m asking for attentiveness Why apose that’s okay he’s becoming Active he knows [Music] Why Yes Okay So you guys get it now you can start to Play with turning the activity on and Off turning it on turning it off and
Showing your dog who’s now in a trial Mode down right he has a one down He has a one Right So now i’m showing him more in the trial Mode right this is what you must do now Is you must accept that sometimes we’re Off and sometimes we’re on right and Your cue can depend on your particular Sport your particular endeavor but it Needs to be Obviously very targeted to what you’re Doing so this is more of like advanced Stuff and now you know i can make Arousal how do i make arousal during a Trial now i i always say to people don’t Be afraid to cheat in a trial like i’ve Had handlers whose dog maybe starts to Go a little flat in the trial and i say Look if your dog goes flat in a basic Position when you take a basic maybe the Judge has turned its back on you maybe He hasn’t give your dog the cue to bark Just a little all cues should be very Like subtle so it shouldn’t be a visible Command right normally it’s just like You know something like that and the dog Barking And you’re gonna lose points for that Right But guess what now your dog’s active Moving into the next exercise and i Guarantee you you’ll lose less points Than if you have a flat dog next to you
Who’s dragging his ass through Everything so if you notice your dog Getting flat especially in more lower Level trials don’t be afraid to give Them some handler help hey man be active Here right now we talk a little bit About our cues right so in the more Intermediate phases of building arousal In the earlier video we talked about Putting arousal on the e-collar putting Arousal on a leash or a pinch collar Okay so you can start using it too you Should still continue to use it too in The more advanced levels out So you guys are going to see now Down Down My e-collar Or my leash and they’re the same for me Like if i use a leash it’s the exact Same boos It works the same so if i take off here And i go foose You see that e-collar there and again There we go Right so you see my correction or My activation is which i like to think About it right Down Down Right i like to think about it like this Where i can make the dog active on the Collar okay And
But i can also make him more correct so It’s a it’s an active correction right i Like to think of it like that some People say it’s just an activation Yeah but you’re also seeing that the dog Puts their behavior in they channel Their behavior if you’re doing it Properly you make this and the dog Becomes more correct while staying Active so i call it an active correction That’s how i look at it right you can Make it exclusively an activation it’s Completely up to you but for me it’s an Active correction my dog doesn’t go low On the e-collar because that’s where i Do my my work nor does he go low on the Pinch collar he becomes more active There okay and because i’m gonna so if You take my other modules we go a lot More in depth into resistance training Both in the healing the the position sit Down stand the dumbbells all that stuff So now when the dog feels resistance Whether it’s from a leash whether it’s From a caller a e-collar with the dog Feels an activation or an active Correction the dog should become more Intense not oh less intense of course we Modulate that to what the dog is right Some dogs can handle a lot less some Dogs can handle a lot more that’s where The artistry comes in and you look at Your dog and you evaluate what kind of Dog am i dealing with here right so we
Want a dog who’s active on the pressure We want a dog who Itself starts right and we want to Constantly work on this i just did a bh And an igp one this train comes every Time i’m doing a video without it Without fail it comes every time i’m Doing a video like it doesn’t come any Other time [Applause] All right so i just did a bh and igp one With my dog okay Within a week of one another I cannot i and my dog i noticed my dog Begin to go a little bit flat on the Basic position So this is something Where you constantly work on this i Don’t care how old the dog is how many Trials your dog has had You bring your dog back to this and you Work on the energy of the dog you take Them out on the field you make positive Energy you create active dog you reward The activity and then you put them away Right and that’s very very powerful not Every session is a 20-minute session With my last dog gage come here Down With my last dog onyx his father I had a problem with my dog going flat In trial and the dog was super driven it Was just over a period of time he would Go flat in the trial
What i did Was i started to make him active in the Basic positions in training and then you Should have seen the difference in trial It was like night and day my dog didn’t Go flat he stayed active and engaged With me the entire trial right because He started to classically through Classical conditioning he started to Associate basic position with activity He associated me taking the dumbbell off The rock the rack with activity these Are useful things so these are more Advanced concepts in activity and Arousal you guys are going to see me use This now throughout the rest of the Course and now you guys are going to Maybe understand a little more when you See it in my youtube videos you guys are Going to understand a lot of people see It and they just think it’s barking and Barking is the key it’s not barking it’s Active arousal that the dog is Generating towards you the same as he Would generate towards a helper the same As he would generate towards a decoy That level of engagement and power and Depends on your dog some dogs a little More dangerous guys and i’ve said it Before you kind of have to be Understand okay i can’t allow my dog to Do this i can’t allow my dog to to jump On me like yaxi my other dog he likes to Jump too much in my face for me that’s a
Bit of a waste of energy so i’ll i’ll Correct him for that i prefer him to Stay active on the ground this dog same Thing he likes to jump a little bit out In my face and if he does down right Down If he does yeah break Don’t do that Exactly you see he just went up and Tried to take a cheap shot Even active at a distance Good class Okay guys so and that’s okay you know Like this is the thing too like if you Have a strong dog and you’re trying to Create like the most optimal level of Activity and have a dog that’s breathing Fire in the trial we’re gonna take a Little bit of a walk on the wild side You might get bit It is what it is you know but when he Bites you and for sure several times in Training he has bitten me nothing too Severe but more as a puppy like he did He experimented i killed the dog for it Okay not like literally you guys know Right but i mean i very firmly correct Him for it you can be active within Reason you’re allowed maybe sometimes to Put your paws on me but there are lies You know maybe you can’t jump in my face You certainly if it’s a weak dog i let Them mouth me a little bit but if it’s a
Dog like him no there’s no mouthing Allowed right i let you be pushy but There is a line that i draw okay and if You go over the line I do physically i severely punish the Dog okay so i hope this helps you guys This is the key to everything i don’t Care what you’re doing this is the key If you are able to strategically inject Active arousal into specific behaviors That you’re doing Um what for whatever kind of training You’re going to have a dog who’s in a Maximum state of drive and focus on you